四针床电脑横机全成形毛衫翻针工艺及其应用
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摘要
基于四针床电脑横机的成形原理及成形方法,选用岛精公司MACH2XS15312G全成形电脑横机的SDS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统,研究四针床全成形毛衫翻针工艺。得出:翻针工艺分线圈向对侧上针床翻针和线圈向对侧下针床翻针2种形式;线圈向对侧上针床翻针可改变圈柱长度,实现全成形毛衫的移圈、管状织物在针床上的平移,编织反面线圈,但不能参与对侧针床的编织;线圈向对侧下针床翻针时,能直接参与对侧针床的编织、维持筒状编织的平衡,但线圈可能会悬挂较长时间,在翻针前需对线圈进行工艺处理。翻针工艺在肩部、领部、平袖山等部位应用。研究成果可为四针床全成形毛衫设计提供技术指导。
In order to investigate the principle of the four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,the whole shaping computer of MACH2 XS15312 G was used and the DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system was adopted. The experimental method was used to study the double needle process of the four-needle bed. It was concluded that the loops transfer were two forms in the side of the needle bed. Loops transferred to the up needle bed can change the circle column length,realize fully fashioned sweater transfer,tubular fabric in translation,needle bed,woven back loops,but cannot participate in the contralateral needle bed fabric weaving; Loops transferred to the down needle,needle bed can be directly involved in the other side of the needle bed knitting,maintain the balance of tubular knitting,but the loops may be suspended for a long time,before the needle process should be carried out on the loops This paper discussed the application of the technique in the shoulder,collar and flat sleeve. The results provided technical assistance for the design of four-needle bed whole garments.
In order to investigate the principle of the four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine,the whole shaping computer of MACH2 XS15312 G was used and the DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system was adopted. The experimental method was used to study the double needle process of the four-needle bed. It was concluded that the loops transfer were two forms in the side of the needle bed. Loops transferred to the up needle bed can change the circle column length,realize fully fashioned sweater transfer,tubular fabric in translation,needle bed,woven back loops,but cannot participate in the contralateral needle bed fabric weaving; Loops transferred to the down needle,needle bed can be directly involved in the other side of the needle bed knitting,maintain the balance of tubular knitting,but the loops may be suspended for a long time,before the needle process should be carried out on the loops This paper discussed the application of the technique in the shoulder,collar and flat sleeve. The results provided technical assistance for the design of four-needle bed whole garments.
引文
[1]彭佳佳,蒋高明,卢致文,等.全成形毛衫在双针床电脑横机上的编织工艺[J].纺织学报,2015,36(11):51-57.
[2]张卫红.在电脑横机上编织整件毛衫的原理及工艺[J].针织工业.2004(5):48-50.
[3] LEE INSUK,CHO KYUHWA,KIM JIYOUNG. The production process of whole garments and the development case of knitwear focused on the SWG-X machine[J]. Journal of Fashion Business,2013,17:83-96.
[4] CHOI W,POWELL N B. Three dimensional seamless garment knitting on V-bed flat knitting machines[J].Journal of Textile&Apparel Technology&Management,2005(3):1-33.
[5] W Kim Y,POWELL N B. An investigation of seam strength and elongation of knitted-neck edges on complete garments by binding-off processes[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute,2014,106(3):334-341.
[6]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺研究[D].无锡:江南大学,2017.
[7]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2017,38(4):65-66.
[8]邱庄岩,吴志明,蒋高明.全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[9]彭佳佳,蒋高明,丛洪莲,等.全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[10]张文斌.服装结构设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2015:146-149.
[2]张卫红.在电脑横机上编织整件毛衫的原理及工艺[J].针织工业.2004(5):48-50.
[3] LEE INSUK,CHO KYUHWA,KIM JIYOUNG. The production process of whole garments and the development case of knitwear focused on the SWG-X machine[J]. Journal of Fashion Business,2013,17:83-96.
[4] CHOI W,POWELL N B. Three dimensional seamless garment knitting on V-bed flat knitting machines[J].Journal of Textile&Apparel Technology&Management,2005(3):1-33.
[5] W Kim Y,POWELL N B. An investigation of seam strength and elongation of knitted-neck edges on complete garments by binding-off processes[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute,2014,106(3):334-341.
[6]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺研究[D].无锡:江南大学,2017.
[7]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2017,38(4):65-66.
[8]邱庄岩,吴志明,蒋高明.全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[9]彭佳佳,蒋高明,丛洪莲,等.全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[10]张文斌.服装结构设计[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2015:146-149.