Wave breaking patterns control rip current flow regimes and surfzone retention

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• 作者：Sebastian Pitman^a ; ^{sjp1e13@soton.ac.uk} ; Shari L. Gallop^a ; ^b ; Ivan D. Haigh^a ; Gerd Masselink^c ; Roshanka Ranasinghe^d ; ^e ; ^f
• 关键词：Video imagery ; Beach state ; Rip current ; Beach rescue ; Wave breaking ; Perranporth
• 刊名：Marine Geology
• 出版年：2016
• 出版时间：1 December 2016
• 年：2016
• 卷：382
• 期：Complete
• 页码：176-190
• 全文大小：3642 K
• 卷排序：382

文摘

A novel wave breaking parameter for investigation of rip currents Rips classified as open or closed in terms of wave breaking at rip head Wave breaking patterns shown to be a key driver of surfzone exit rate Open rips shown to be twice as dangerous as closed rips